Friday, November 27, 2009
On the journey between Chiang Mai and Phuket
Out of Chaing Mai we first traveled for 16 hours on an overnight train to Bangkok, and were all pleasantly surprised by the cozy quarters the train official so effortlessly converted our seats into. Still a bit bleary-eyed, we negotiated our way into taxis to take us to the Camillian Center for a volunteer opportunity arranged by Tessa. We arrived into the welcoming care of Faisal, a Pakistani-Canadian man who has been volunteering his time as coordinator of the center for several years now. The main branch of Camillian, which has been working since 1995 around all issues of those affected by HIV/AIDS, is in Rayong. The Bangkok branch we stayed with was recently inaugurated in January of last year. They currently serve about twenty-eight kids who either have some sort of physical disability, mental disability, or are HIV+. Half live there permanently, and the other half arrive each day for day care. Their stories are each unique and inspiring-- often a tale of having been abandoned in hospitals or dumped on the streets, though if you didn't hear it, you'd hardly believe since these little ones have made such progress.
The facilities at Camillian are impressive, with a four-floored building, courtyard with trampoline and exercise equipment, physiotherapy rooms with walking bars, weights, straps, balls, etc. The staff is ample; providing for a nearly one-to-one ratio of care for these adorable kids.
We spent the days helping in the early mornings by washing, dressing and feeding the babies, and during the morning sessions would assist in whatever ways were useful-- with physiotherapy, art projects, teaching English, or jumping on the trampoline. In the afternoons we would often join some of the cooking staff in teaching some basic recipes for baking, including chocolate chip cookies and banana bread. Though they've had a large gas oven since first opening, it hasn't been used simply because there isn't a custom of baking. So though it took some leaps of trust, the staff allowed Tessa to light it up. After several repeats of the procedure, we're hopeful the oven will find good use now.
All in all, the Camillian is well-staffed with some tremendous-hearted caretakers. So while not in dire need, they greatly appreciate volunteers for their injection of new energy, moments of relief for the full-time workers, and as links to the world outside the Camilliam compound. We enjoyed our days laughing and playing with the kids who have such warm and accepting souls, though we also agreed that the work is exhausting! We have great appreciation for the dedication of caretakers who wake up day after day to challenging tasks of meeting multiple needs.
We were able to take a mid-week break and go into Bangkok to explore a bit, have some comfort food, and do a bit more market shopping (y'all are really in for a superb holiday:)), and Alecc, Tessa and Steph had a bit of time exploring a Saturday market just before taking off on another overnight travel trip...
This time we continued further south on a 10-hour bus ride to Ranong. Arriving around 5:30 am, we waited a few hours before being scooped up by Akong and Down, two employees of the NGO called Mirror Art Foundation. They had both spent the night on Koh Lhao, the island on which we were about to go, and had to wait for the tide to come in before motorboating into Ranong to meet us. After a market breakfast of coffee, some fried doughs, sticky rice, fried chicken and shrimp, we and our bags made our way out to the island. Koh Lhao is home to about 50 families of Moken people, who are a population who have historically been 'sea gypsies', but have largely been forced to become land-bound. They are neither accepted by Myanmar nor Thailand, and therefore live in a limbo space characterized by powerlessness and impoverishment. Being a people of the sea, Moken have intimate knowledge of the waters but little know-how of construction and land-based living. They space they've been relegated to is little, and is covered in many areas with trash and sewage.
The political situation is frustrating, to put it mildly. We were there on a project to help build a community center in order for the villagers to have a space to meet, organize and hopefully collectively improve the living conditions of the island village. In our first tour of the island, however, we learn that a community center does, in fact, already exist. The issue is that post-tsunami the Thai government declared the land on which the center exists to be Thai national park land, and thus illegal for Moken to utilize... ridiculous and sad, really.
Nevertheless, in the spirit of continuing on, our group furthered the building of the community center by gathering rocks and sand from the beach, and purchasing construction supplies from Ranong. Our task was to pour cement beams to support the posts that will hold the raised floor. The land on which this is being built is questionable... on marsh and sewage, but we acknowledge we are there a short time, and trust in those who are overseeing... So over the days we learn the ropes of tying off rebar and mixing concrete. Sometimes we work with just our crew of seven, and often times we're joined by over twenty women from the community, and we are amazed at the difference of how much we're able to accomplish. Such a palpable demonstration of the power of solidarity.
During our time on this humble island, we're well-fed by Peenow, a strong woman (one of only 3 Thai citizens on the island) who advocates for Moken rights. We also sleep on the edge of their meeting space, which is a large dock built of long, round branches. After dinner, we lay out our sleeping bags on top of mats, and enjoy the adventure of the night, of the tide from low to high right underneath us. Sometimes we're rocked by boats that sway into the dock with the strong breeze; often we're awoken by strong stenches of fish or otherwise... Certainly our most unique slumber spot of the trip.
The last evening at Koh Lao, the village appears for a short gratitude ceremony in our honor. There are speeches, certificates and t-shirts gifted, and then we each stand behind a pot of food and help distribute to the awaiting community. It's special to see each face, albeit a brief passing of time with each individual there.
And the next morning we move on, this time hopping on a boat to a garbage-less oasis called Koh Chang (Elephant Island). The motorboat ride through the Andaman sea is gorgeous, and we're all enamored with the peacefulness and beauty of the long beach. We soak up each moment there-- to swim, lay, walk, eat, set off fireworks:)... the feel of the contrast is immediate-- to be able to use fresh water more freely whereas it was in scarce supply on Koh Lao.
And yet another contrast met us last night, as we arrived after another 6-hour bus ride from Ranong to Phuket. Though this beach was pummeled by the tsunami just five years ago, development came back in full steam... and we find ourselves in a tourist jungle at the location of our last destination of Patong beach. Steph, Alecc and Tessa have launched into three days of their course for open water scuba diving certification, and Brian and I attend to end-of-semester duties.
As we count remaining days of the trip on one hand, we marvel at the journey... it's been a challenging one, each of us pushed in unique ways to contemplate who we are, where we stand, where we bend...
Check in mid-week and hopefully you'll read of the wonders of the Andaman:)
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Pun Pun and other fun
We have spent around a month in the interesting city of Chiang Mai, Thailand. The five of us spend our time in different ways.
-Brian has taken a Thai Massage course with Kuan Amanda. He has also taken some time to reflect on his different goals in life, such as his future coffee shop.
-Amanda has done a variety of activities, the Thai Massage course, meditation group, yoga, and exploring the city.
-Tessa has spent her time rock climbing, teaching orphans to cha-cha and making the BEST memories of her young life with Alecc and I.
-Alecc and I have spent our time in a similar way, as the se Asians say, "Same, Same, but Different". We both volunteer five days a week at Care For Dogs. Care for Dog is a dog shelter for abused, and abandoned dogs in Chiang Mai.
Some group things we have done together...
-Monk chat: a really cool thing, where ppl can come together and average ppl can ask a monk any question that comes to mind.
-Three weeks of Thai Language school with Kuan Sompop. Favorite thing I learned: Jing-luh?! (Really?) Jing-Jing! (Really!)
-Sunday market, Night Market, Day Market= A lot of shopping = many gifts for the people we all love. <3>
-AirportPlazaaaa. Alecc, Tessa and I all saw the movies Surrogates, and 2012. After 2012 (which we saw on the premiere, last night, we stumbled on a rock concert. No one was dancing and the three of us along with our new Chinese, Thai and Sweden friend went to the edge of the stage and started dancing. Suddenly everyone got up and started grooving! The lead singer hopped off the stage and joined in with us and all the 14 year old awe-struck Thai girls! A memory I'll never forget.
-One weekend our gang went to Pun-Pun!
Pun-pun is a crazy organic hippy seed saving Eco-farm. We slept on the most uncomfortable thin mats in the eco friendly building. The most important thing to know about this weekend is that we found out half the people at this place drink their own pee. Its quite shocking but after an explanation its not quite as weird as it first sounds to western ears. There was also a awesome monk at this eco-farm, that made painting for all of the girls. A man named Justin who lives at Pun-pun with his four month pregnant German girlfriend taught us how to make bread. Pun-Pun was quite the experience I won't forget soon.
Our trip is quickly reaching its end. With only 19 days left we head to Bangkok tomorrow, to volunteer for 5 days at an organization that work with orphaned children who are HIV positive and have disabilities. Tessa organized this volunteer position for us and I am quite excited to start our work there.
P.S. I miss Tyler and Conor now almost as much as Alecc and Tessa do. haha
-Love
Stephanie